DIY - Accent Wall - Remodelando la Casa

master bedroom with an accent wooden wall

Turning this boring, slanted wall into one of the main features of this room started by installing a modern geometric design on it.

My last post was about how I wanted to create a design on paper, but sadly and as usual, I failed at doing so. I commissioned my nephew to do that job for me. He delivered three beautiful designs, but I kind of chickened out on working with the one I liked. There were too many numbers and cuts to follow and to tell you the truth, I'm not too good at that.

What did I do instead??

Well, I went my own way, creating an even easier design as I went along.

I can tell you it was a fun project that required lots of me stepping back to see if I was happy with what I was creating. Ha, something I much rather prefer than following crazy numbers!

The slanted wall was a bit of an issue during the design process, I wanted to make that slant less obvious if at all possible.

Let me show you how it all went.

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You can check a time-lapse video of this project right here:

The materials you'll need:

Wood - 1 x 2 boards - I used 176 feet - 12 -10' & 2 -16'
Baseboard - 1 x 6 x 16'
Painters tape
Brad nails 18 gauge x 2"
Spackling paste
Caulk

Tools:

Miter saw - Brad Nailer - T-Bevel angle finder - Level - Ladder - Framing Square - Tape measure - Sander -

DIRECTIONS

1. DIVIDE THE WALL INTO SECTIONS

I used painter's tape to divide the wall into the three main sections I wanted to create. As usual, I think uneven numbers work better.

Setting there that right angle, was a good move for easier cuts later on.

Once happy with that first layout, go ahead and install those wooden pieces. An extra set of hands is really helpful in dealing with those longboards.

2. START FILLING UP EACH SECTION

I tried to fool the eye by installing those 1 x 2's pointing upwards in that right-hand side section, the shortest part of the wall.
The material was spaced every 12". Pieces of wood were the best spacers to ensure every section was the same size.

3. HOW TO MEASURE AND CUT THE WOODEN PIECES

Set a long enough 1 x 2 on the location you want to install it. Bring it all the way to the wall to mark the angle at which that end needs to be trimmed.

Use a t-bevel angle finder to set that angle. A t-bevel angle is a tool that is used to laying out and transfer angles.

You loosen up both blades of the t-bevel by loosening the wing nut in the center. Place the t-bevel in the place where you need to measure the angle, once happy with it, tighten the wing nut to lock that angle in place and transfer it onto the wood.

As you see in the picture below, the red lines I drew correspond to that same angle captured with the device. The line across the board is the one where the board needs to be cut.

Use a saw or miter saw to make the cut.
Bring the board back again to its designated space. Set that freshly cut end against the wall and mark the location for where the other end needs to be cut (right picture below).

Trim it and install it in place using 2" brad nails, preferably onto the studs on the wall.

Continue working in the same manner around all the areas on the wall.

4. IT'S A MODERN FREE DESIGN

Remember it's your own design, you set your own rules!

Here on the left section of my wall, I laid the boards horizontally and the spaces in between them were uneven.

This left section is the highest part of this wall, by setting the design on the horizontal, I wanted to diminish that elevation, creating a straight lower liner at about the same height as the other side.

A self-leveling laser level was a great tool for this part of the project.

Here again, those long spacers held the mainboard in place while I measured and installed it.

Did I tell you to step back frequently to see if you like the direction your design is taking??
Here I wasn't sure about the spaces on that slanted ladder.

5. REMEMBER TO WORK AROUND THE OBJECTS THAT MIGHT COVER YOUR DESIGN

From the very beginning, you have to account for those big items that might cover parts of your design. In my case, the biggest item was the bed with its headboard.

Trace those items onto the wall and work your design around them.

6. FILL HOLES, GAPS, AND SAND

Use the spackling paste to fill the nail holes and caulking for all those lines along the wall.
My husband almost always helps me with this job. ;)

Finally, sand smooths all those surfaces before painting. It's even a good idea to prime those boards before painting.

I was undecided about the slanted ladder, as I call it. At first, I thought the spaces I had given it were too big. So, I went and temporarily installed one extra board in the middle of each square. As you see here: