DIY - Dog Crate/Side Table Knockoff Challenge

DIY Dog Crate Side Table: Stylish & Budget-Friendly (Under $100!)

Hey, fellow DIY enthusiasts! I'm thrilled to kick off a brand new series on the blog: a monthly DIY challenge where I team up with a group of incredibly talented friends to tackle creative projects. This month, we're diving into the world of 'knockoffs,' proving that you don't need a big budget to achieve high-end style. Our mission? Recreate a coveted piece for under $100!

As you might've guessed from the title, I'm tackling a DIY dog crate project! And as you saw in that first pic, the results are stunning. Stick around until the end of this post, where I'll share links to all the amazing creations my friends have whipped up – you won't want to miss them!

Now, let's talk about my project. For months, our furry friend Louie 🐾 has needed a cozy, designated space in our home. We envisioned a stylish dog crate that could double as a side table, providing him a comfortable retreat while seamlessly blending with our decor. We wanted a secure, calming place for him, especially during those hectic moments when visitors arrive, and he needs a quiet zone to unwind. Currently, the laundry room serves as his temporary 'chill zone,' but we knew we could do better.

Then, inspiration struck! I stumbled upon a beautiful side table/dog crate online. It was the perfect blend of functionality and aesthetic appeal, exactly what we were looking for! However, the price tag? Not so perfect. That's when I knew it was the perfect project for this month's DIY challenge. I'm going to recreate that high-end look for a fraction of the cost, proving that a stylish, functional dog crate is within everyone's reach. Let's dive into how you can build your own DIY dog crate side table, step-by-step, for under $100!

*This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

The materials you'll need:

• A sheet of plywood 4' x 8' - You'll only need about two-thirds of it, but buying the entire sheet is more cost-effective.
• 2 rolls of edge banding - Optional
• 1-1/4 Kreg pocket hole screws
• Stain or paint

The tools you'll need:

• Drill
• Circular saw
• Miter saw
• Jigsaw
• Clamps
• Kreg Jig

Directions:

1. CUT THE MATERIAL
Cut your material following the plan right HERE. I used tape on both sides of the plywood to prevent tear-out.

2. DRAW & CUT-OUT

Follow the plan to draw the cut-out designs.

Again, I used tape to prevent splintering the plywood.

I used my jigsaw to make all these cut-outs. The jigsaw creates splintering on the underside of the material. Even though I used the tape, I still had lots of chipping on those edges, especially on the crosscutting.

I didn't use a guide to make the cuts; those lines are far from straight, and I need more practice with this saw. 

3. DRILL POCKET HOLES

You must drill pocket holes around the front and back pieces (A & B) and at the top and lower sides of pieces C & D.

Here's a dry-fit. Ensuring everything was OK.

4. PAINT OR STAIN

Before assembling the table, I decided to stain all the pieces. I used Varathane dark walnut wood stain - 8 oz was enough for this table.

I didn't use a wood conditioner or fancy sponges... An old sock worked very well. ;) Only one coat gave me good coverage.

Once dry I gave them a coat of clear poly - mate finish.

5. FINISH THE PLYWOOD EDGES

Call me crazy, but I added tape veneer to all the rough edges of the plywood. 

Yep. Ironing and trimming the veneer was tricky and time-consuming. But I wanted a better-looking finish that only paint/stain wouldn't deliver.

6. ASSEMBLE THE BASE

The legs and base support pieces were cut at a 15-degree angle, and they were assembled with pocket hole joinery and glue.

7. ASSEMBLE THE TOP BOX

Place the top board (E) upside down and start installing the front and back pieces, drilling them onto the underside of that top board. I couldn't have done it without my long clamps.

Then, bring the sideboards (C & D), drill them onto the top board, and connect them to the front and back boards.

8. ASSEMBLE THE TABLE

Place the top box on top of the base and drill the 1-1/4" Kreg screws all around to connect both pieces together.

Makita Impact Driver

9. THE DOOR

My inspiration uses guide channels on each side of the door to keep it aligned. I skipped the channels and only used a magnetic door catch on the lower part of the door to keep the door from swinging.

And well, here you have it in my family room!

Here, with our little musketeer enjoying it.

You can see some of the chipping on the edges in the picture below. Those little windows were the troublemakers when adding that veneer.

Peek-a-boo! Well, he's more like begging me to take him out. :D

He's out fast when that door opens up! :D

When the door's not in use, I simply hang it on the back of the table on a screw I drilled there.

I added a leather pull on the door to make it easier to get in and out.

And it was the perfect table for that side of the sofa in our family room.

|  Cantilever Floor Lamp  |  Wall Art  | Curtains - similar  | Rug  |  

It looks like this is going to be Louie's favorite spot!!

Now it's time to check out all the other knockoff projects my friends have done. They're all so good!

Addicted 2 DIY

Woodshop Diaries

The Inspired Workshop

The Awesome Orange

DIY Huntress

Reality Daydream

Not Just A Housewife

For more DIY home ideas, check these out:

Family Room Before and After

DIY Coastal Votives with Tray

DIY - Board & Batten

*This post contains affiliate links.

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