Bathroom Renovation: Under the Eaves Storage Shelves

This post is sponsored by The Home Depot.

Is not every day that you find wasted space waiting for you to transform it into something useful! That's exactly why this lower part of the wall was turned into bathroom storage.

As you can see in the picture below, this little bathroom had a big chunk of the wall doing nothing. Well, besides holding a towel rod.🤨

This entire project was easy to accomplish, but there were so many little things I had to complete that it felt like it was taking a whole lot of my time and energy. Anyhow, let me show you how you can tap on that wasted space under the eaves and turn it into cool storage space.

This is a long post with lots of pictures where I'm trying to detail all the work done. Most likely you can
complete this project with a hand saw, hammer and nails but hey, using power tools makes it a bit easier.
I'm so glad and beyond grateful to be able to partner with Home Depot to try an assortment of great tools during this project.

*This post contains affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

THE BEFORE

I knew we had extra space below those little windows as I explained during the entire bathroom plan right HERE. Under the windows you can see the garage roofline at an angle, creating the extra space that I was going to use for this project.

This was a few months ago when a new roof was installed.

1. REMOVE DRYWALL

Inside, in the bathroom, the Sheetrock was removed.

The amount of 2 x 4 was crazy!!! I knew there were studs there supporting those windows, but I never thought they were SO many. Anyhow, there were spaces in between them and those spaces were the ones I used.

AIR VENT & WALL HEATER INSTALLATION

Besides creating storage space, I also wanted to mount the air vent (previously on the floor) and a wall heater here, among the shelves. The new Sheetrock was installed leaving the openings around the air vent, heater, and shelves.

2 x 4's were installed on the lower part where the shelves are going to rest. How high or how low depends on the size of the baseboard. My plan was to use a 1 x 6 as a baseboard and to have the lower shelf flush with the baseboard. The thickness of the lower shelf also needs to be taken into consideration when setting those 2 x 4s.

Dremel Multi-Max  |  Accessory Set for Wood Metal and Drywall  |  Cutting and Variety Accessory Kit for Wood Metal and Drywall

The Dremel Multi-Max is one of the tools I keep on using for almost every project. Working with Sheetrock and opening that back part on the wall was super easy with it, the new round-ish Wood & Drywall blade was the one for this project. I also used it to trim the boxes to make them fit inside the wall, as you can see later on.

2. BUILD SHELF SUPPORT

The shelves I was going to install most probably would be OK by only securing them to the studs on the wall. They are small and they will not carry much weight. But, just to be extra cautious, I went ahead and installed a 2 x 4 support in the attic space.

Husky 48" In. Box Level  |  Milwaukee Hex Impact Driver

This support had to be installed flush to the horizontal 2 x 4's on the wall. Make sure it's level.

3. BUILD THE SHELVES

My shelves were 36" in height, and 16" deep, and the width was different for each one of them. The widest is about 14".

Those dimensions are all that's needed to go and cut the material to build the shelves.

I used half-inch plywood for the sides (remember the spaces in between studs were narrow), and for the shelves (horizontal material) I used 3/4" material.  And I was happy to utilize all those scrap pieces from previous projects.

DeWalt Orbital Sander  |  Roller Paint Trim Kit

Sanding, priming, and painting were done before assembling the shelves.

RIDGID Drill |  Milwaukee Hex Impact Driver

The first task to build the shelves was to measure and mark the location of the shelves on both side panels. I like to draw those lines on both sides of both panels because it helps me drive every single screw from the outside of the shelf right into the perfect location on the shelf.

Placing the pair of side panels with the marked shelf location I do pre-drills on both boards at the same time.  Make sure you mark your panels: shelf 1- upfront - etc. The painted side goes inside.

Start assembling the top and lower shelf, driving the 1¼" wood screws into the pre-drilled holes. Once the box is complete, check for squareness. If not, push and wiggle it to make it square.

Then, you can continue with the inner shelves.

I was running out of leftover pieces, one of my shelves was a two-piece shelf put together with the Kreg Jig. For the back, I used the plywood material that came with protecting the new vanity. 😉

4. INSTALL THE SHELVES

Before securing the backs to the shelves, I went to do a dry-fit. It was a tight fit, but if something doesn't fit quite nicely, it's easier to fix it at this point.

5. ADD BEADBOARD

The beadboard was the other reason why I didn't attach the backs onto the shelves just yet. 

Makita Cordless Circular Saw  |  Battery Pack  | Diablo Ultra Finish Saw Blade

My new Makita brushless cordless circular saw, along with an Ultra Finish Diablo saw blade was the perfect match for this task. Hey, no cords to deal with, lightweight, powerful, and with a battery that lasts forever!
Ha, no wonder I forgot how much I cut off of each half panel, like ten inches??

Well, after trimming each of the half beadboard panels, the area for the shelves was cut-off with a jigsaw.

RYOBI Cordless Orbital Jigsaw

I used those cut-off pieces as an additional board on the back of the shelves. I cut them a bit too big and had a hard time fitting them on the wall/attic space. I had to use the Dremel to trim them a bit.

6. INSTALL THE BASEBOARD & ADD SHELF FACE FRAMES

Install the baseboard. It should lay flush with that first lower shelf. Then, using 1 x 2 material build the face frames.

DeWalt Drill Driver  |  Kreg Jig

I like to build the face frames around my shelves, they give the shelves more stability, and building the complete structure means you're not going to deal with parts of your frame getting loose over time.

Before attaching the face frames, drive 1½" brad nails to secure the shelves to the studs on the wall and on the back to the support on the lower back of each shelf.

RYOBI 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18-Gauge Cordless Brad Nailer

I installed a 1 x 6 all along the top edge of the beadboard. topping it off with a 1 x 2.

Fill nail holes and gaps with lightweight spackle. Sand and paint.

7. ADD INSULATION

Just when I thought I was done, I remembered there was something else that I needed to do. I told you... It's like a million little things!

I had to go once again to the attic (via the garage) to insulate those shelves. I don't know how people do this step when there's no extra space for you to fit in. Luckily I'm not one of those.

I had to convince my teenage boy to come up to the attic space with me to take some pictures while I worked there. Ha, these were the only two pictures he took before he sensed something crawling on him, or what he thought because I've never seen creepy crawlers up there, it's too hot!

200-Lumen Multi-Use LED Utility Light  |  300-Lumen LED Dual Beam Unbreakable HeadLight  |  

200-Lumen Multi-Use LED Clip Light

Anyhow, I was more than prepared to work alone there. My Husky flashlights and the insulation was all I needed.

I'm the one that's always bugging my husband for having too many flashlights and I keep on telling him they're not needed, but while working there in such a dark space, I was super glad to have these lights! I got the light with me and my hands were free to do what I needed to do. I love the headlight, it has two settings and a red flashing light. And you can direct the light downward. I also like the clip light or as I call it... The pocket light, it stays clipped to your pocket all time.
Now, they all come with the Husky Tools Lifetime Warranty... If your Husky light gets damaged, they replace it, no receipt needed, no questions asked. 👍

I used spray insulating foam all around the corners of the shelves, then vapor barrier plastic sheeting and unfaced fiberglass insulation were installed.


Oh well, at long last, here are the final pictures:

Oh, and I almost forgot the heater and air vent cover... I think I'm gonna leave it for another post. ;)

Bathroom necessities...

Instead of a  rod for one towel I have the space to store towels and more towels!

Those bowls were thrift store finds. Aren't they cute!

And I cannot leave you without the before and after.

The line in the middle (below pic) is the shower glass.

Did you notice the third window frame??  I needed it for a more symmetrical look. I haven't decided how to dress-up that fake window. Painting a scene in there, adding a mirror or closed shutters??  What do you think would be the best?

The following are the links to the projects done in this bathroom:

• Bathroom Reveal
• Tiling the Shower
• From Bathtub to Walk-in Shower
• The fake window
• The Mirrors
• How to Install Real Shiplap
• The Vanity Area
• Under the Eaves Storage Shelves
• How to Plank a Ceiling - ShipLap Ceiling
• Floor-Level Shower Install
• The Lighting Plan
• Fixing Trouble Areas - Plumbing
• The Shower Extension
• Getting to the other side of the bathroom
• Bathroom Demo - Part 2
• Bathroom Demo - Part 1
• The master bathroom plan
• Vintage Modern Master Bathroom Mood Board

Here's how I easily change the look of the shower.

I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with me to participate in the promotional program described above (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

*This post contains affiliate links.

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